Consumer Fireworks Display: Firework Waterfall, Firecracker and Star Set Pieces

Mortar Racks, Fusing Techniques, and a Firework Wheel

In the last few weeks I’ve discussed making small Cremora fireballs and electric matches to use in a Consumer fireworks display, as well as firing systems and wiring techniques.

I’ve also covered many topics which deserve attention when planning the show and purchasing devices for it.

This week we’ll be looking at the construction of mortar racks from which to fire artillery shells during the show, how to construct a really nice wheel using fountains from the local fireworks store, and some techniques for using various fuses to attach devices together for the display.

Mortars are the tubes with plugged ends that fireworks shells, comets or mines are fired from. Mortars can be made of HDPE plastic, fiberglass, paper, or in some special cases, metal.

The mortars need to be secured in an upright and safe position. This can be done by burying the mortars (guns) about 2/3 of their length in the ground. Here are a couple of shots of some of the large guns that were buried for shows and competition at a recent Pyrotechnics Guild International convention.

Often, especially with smaller guns, the mortars can be securely held in place in racks, either perpendicularly or at an angle. The racks can be constructed of metal, wood, or a combination of the two.

Here are a couple of artillery shell racks made by Brian Paonessa at Skylighter, using Skylighter’s PL3182
fiberglass mortars. One is a fan rack, and the other holds the guns straight up and down.

Here is a shot showing some of the construction details of the fanned rack. Brian has glued and screwed the rack together.

Below is the angled PL3175 artillery shell mortar rack that Skylighter sells. The swing-out feet hold it in an upright position. When using this rack, I drill holes in the feet and drive spikes through them and into the ground to keep the rack from bouncing and falling over.

As you can see in the photo of the PGI racks above, wooden racks can also be held upright by attaching them together with lengths of wood 1×3s, or by pieces of plywood attached to both ends of them. In either case, screws or nails are used to keep the whole assembly upright and rigid.

Care must be taken to avoid driving fasteners into the mortars. In pyro this is known as a “bad-thing.”

Typically, except in the case of fan-racks, racks are set up so that their ends are perpendicular to the front of the crowd. That way, if a rack happened to come loose and fall down, it would not be firing toward the crowd.

Here is another way to secure wooden racks. Screw-eyes are installed into the rack ends, and rebar pins are used to hold the racks in place. Both ends of the racks are supported in this manner, and racks can be erected end-to-end with only one pin between them.

No matter what method is used to erect them, once the racks have been assembled, they ought to be secure enough to withstand a healthy kick with a boot.

In this section I’ll be referring to and using the various kinds of fuse shown in the photo below. Each one serves its own purpose and has its own unique burn-rate. The burn rate of a roll of any particular kind of fuse can vary. So it’s a good idea to cut 10 inches of the fuse off that roll and time it with a stopwatch as it burns to determine its exact burn rate.

American Visco	2.5 seconds per inch
Chinese Visco	1.7 seconds per inch
Fast Visco	0.25 seconds per inch
Fast Fuse	0.1 – 0.15 seconds per inch
Time Fuse	2.2 – 3 seconds per inch
Quickmatch	Instantaneous
Foil-Taped Fast Visco	Instantaneous
Foil-Taped Fast Fuse	Instantaneous

The foil-taped fast-Visco or fast-fuse may be used as excellent substitutes for quickmatch, which is not shippable. I described how to make it in Really Nice 4″ Plastic Ball Firework Shells .

In the rest of this article, I will refer to quickmatch, and you’ll know you can make substitutes for it with the fast-Visco or fast-fuse as described above.

So, I have filled 6 tubes in my rack with an artillery shell, comet, or a mine. If they are to be hand-fired, the shell-leaders (fuses) can simply be left hanging out of the guns, ready to be lit one at a time with a propane torch.

These shell leaders are fast-Visco fuse, and I’d expect a burn rate of about 4 inches per second, which will produce about a 3 second delay between lighting the fuse and the shell launch.

A shell of this size will take about 3-4 seconds to rise in the sky and display its starburst. So if I light the next fuse immediately after the first shell has launched, and so on, I’ll get a nicely paced series of bursts that lasts a total of 18-20 seconds.

If the shell fuse leaders are a bit on the short side and threaten to drop down into the mortars, they can be held in place with a little masking tape. Be sure the shells are all the way on the bottom of the guns, though, to insure proper height when they are launched. A shell that’s not seated solidly on the bottom of its mortar can become a “low break,” which, in turn, can cause fires or injuries.

But, let’s say I want all of these shells to launch at the same time at some point during the show or at the end of it (the “finale”). In that case I’ll chain them all together with a length of quickmatch. Chaining shells simply means attaching their fuse leaders together in a series. If the shells are chained together with quickmatch, and then the end of the quickmatch is lit using a piece of Visco fuse or an electric match, once the flame hits the quickmatch the shells will all ascend skyward in quick succession.

This is done as follows:

• Cut a length of quickmatch as long as the run of mortar tubes containing the shells, plus about a foot. Always use a razor blade or anvil cutters to cut fuse, never scissors.

• Pierce the quickmatch wall with an awl where each shell leader comes out of the top of the mortar, making sure that all the layers of match pipe are pierced and you can see the black match inside.

• Put a fresh diagonal cut on the end of the shell leaders with a razor blade in order to expose the powder inside the leader.
• Insert the shell leader into the quickmatch for an inch or so.
• Use masking tape or aluminum foil tape to secure the shell leader into the quickmatch. I really like the aluminum foil duct tape with the peel-off paper backing. The stuff sticks like crazy, will not gradually come loose over time, and is fireproof.

• Use string to tie the fuse chain down to the rack between each mortar. I like waxed string for this purpose. It makes “threading the needle” with it a breeze. This prevents the first shell from yanking the chain as it is launched, which might pull the rest of the leaders loose from the chain.

Warning: In the past, some folks have used a staple gun to staple quickmatch chains to the tops of wooden racks. More than once, the stapler has created a spark which has ignited the chain and instantly sent shells skyward. This has killed or seriously injured some people. Don’t use a staple gun to secure flammable fuse, nor use one anywhere near pyrotechnic compositions.

The nifty thing about this fusing method, and the following ones, is that they can be applied to fusing rockets set side-by-side in launch tubes, or to fusing cakes laid out in a field or on a piece of plywood. A whole show can be laid out, fused together with a combination of these methods, and fired by lighting one fuse or firing one electric match.

But Wait, There’s More! Maybe I want that nice 3-4 second delay between the shells’ firing that I spoke about earlier. Maybe I want a different delay time, but I want to fire the shells in a chain as in the section above. How can I build that delay in between each shell in the chain?

Near the end of the Pyrotechnica XI article, Traditional Cylinder Shell Construction, Part II, “Finale and Flight Chaining” is addressed. This is a fascinating explanation of “old-time” chaining methods using quickmatch, paper buckets (rolled tubes of kraft paper), string, spolettes and regular time fuse. It’s a valuable addition to my pyro library. In the photo above, there are about 3 inches between the center of each mortar. If I run one of the Visco fuses down the line instead of the quickmatch, and attach my shell leaders every 3 inches, then I will get 3 inches of delay between shots.

3 inches of the American Visco fuse will give me a delay of 7.5 seconds between shells. That’s more than I want, but that might work in some cases. 3 inches of the Chinese Visco will give a delay of 5.1 seconds between shots. That’s more like it. I could go with that, although it’s a bit more of a delay than I really want.

To use Visco for a chain, simply tape the end of each shell leader alongside the Visco fuse as it runs along the tops of the mortars. The two fuses must be parallel to and touching each other for at least an inch of tape. Then tie the chain down to the mortar rack as shown above. Don’t try to run the shell leaders into the Visco fuse chain at a right-angle. You’ll get poor or failed ignition that way.

There is another, more precise, way of incorporating delays into a chain of shell leaders, though. It incorporates sections of cross-matched time fuse, or the hand-rammed spolette fuses that I described in Firework Shells in 2-1/2 Days – Part 3.

The roll of 1/4 inch time fuse that I have burns at a rate of 2.2 seconds per inch. If I use 1-1/2 inches of it between each shell in the rack, I’ll get a 3.3 second delay between the firing of each shell. This is done as follows.

I want 1.5 inches of time fuse delay, and I’m going to split each end of the fuse 1/2 inch for cross-matching. So I cut five, 2-1/2 inch sections of the time fuse. I split each end 1/2 inch with my razor blade, insert three 2 inch pieces of the thin black match that can be found in the fast-fuse or quickmatch, and I tie each end of the time fuse closed with a clove hitch and overhand knot to secure each knot.

Then I make “buckets” out of 3-1/2 inch x 3-1/2 inch pieces of kraft paper, rolled around a 1/2 inch wood dowel, with the edge of the paper glued down. I then tie a bucket on each end of the cross-matched time-fuse pieces, with the knots just to the inside of the pieces of cross-match. Tie the knots very tightly so that hot gasses cannot escape the bucket and transfer over to the next one before the time fuse has burned through.

Now it’s just a matter of making a chain of these bucket time-delays, in similar fashion to the chains that were made above. The first bucket in the chain has a piece of quickmatch coming into it from the ignition source, and a piece of quickmatch coming out of it into which the first shell’s leader is tied or taped. I don’t want a delay before this first shell’s fuse is ignited. This first bucket also lights the first time-fuse delay element.

I bare the black match in the quickmatch for 3/4 inch before inserting it into the buckets. It’s easy enough to clip the buckets a bit shorter with scissors as necessary. It’s just important to avoid cutting into the cross-match with the scissors, and to leave enough bucket so that the knot can be tied without any blackmatch protruding beyond it.

During the chain assembly, it can help to tie each delay down to the rack before assembling the next link in the chain. This helps to insure that the quickmatch pieces leading to the shells are long enough, and are routed away from each other and away from the mouth of a previous mortar, which would lead to a premature ignition.

The chain shown above is designed to be ignited from the left end, to have 3.3 second delays between each shell, and to pass fire from the right end to the next device in the line if desired.

This same type of chaining using time fuse, can be used to link box-cakes to each other. Let’s say I start with the ignition of a cake that has a 30 second burn time, and I want to overlap the next box 5 seconds into the first cake’s time. I’ll put a 25 second delay time fuse and buckets at the ignition point of that second cake. On and on, this type of show can be assembled.

Now for the added bonus section in this article. I find it to be fun and creative to take consumer fireworks items from the fireworks store, and assemble them into larger and more impressive assemblies. Fireworks cone-fountains can be hung upside down in a line to form a waterfall, and they can also be used as drivers in this large wheel. “Drivers” provide the force to make the wheel go round.

Chromatropes are a traditional fireworks display exhibition pieces. They are simply composed of two counter-rotating wheels, each of which is a basic assembly of wooden crosses with the drivers attached at the ends of each arm. They produce the kind of effect shown below.

The device shown above has 8 pairs of crossing fountain-sprays, or 16 drivers. This would be 8 drivers per wheel, and with 1 driver at the end of each cross-member, each wheel would have 4 cross-members. We’ll build a simpler version, with two wheels, each having 2 cross-members and 4 cone-drivers.

Here is an illustration of a chromatrope out of Weingart’s Pyrotechnics.

You’ll notice in both the photo and the illustration that the drivers are mounted at a 45 degree angle to the arms, and will shoot their spray out at that angle. This angle also diminishes the amount of force with which each driver will drive the wheel. I’m going to mount the cone-drivers at less of an angle to increase their force when turning the wheels, since the cones are not as powerful as handmade drivers.

Here’s a very simple pictorial essay on this consumer fireworks model. The hubs that the bolt-axles go through are simply 3 inch long 3/8″ threaded tubes/nuts/washers, available at a hardware store in the lighting department.

I have cut 1-Inch x 2-Inch x 8 foot pieces of lumber in half to produce 4 foot long arms, and I’ve cut steep angles on the ends of each arm.

Then I drill 3/8 inch holes in the center of each arm, insert the threaded tubes, put some wood glue between the arms, and tighten the nuts and washers.

I’ve removed the wrapping paper from the cones and drilled some mounting holes in their hollow bases. I’ve also installed some extra scotch-tape to insure that the fuses are secured in their tops.

I then mount the cones to the arms with iron wire, and I install buckets and quickmatch to fuse them together. I have clipped the cone visco fuses on an angle to get fresh powder exposed, and I’ve glued and tied the buckets to the cones to insure that they don’t slip off.

I’ve assembled a T-support with 4×4 lumber and reinforcements. This insures that the wheels don’t hit the vertical support during operation.

I’ve assembled the wheels so that they are driven and turn in opposite directions. You’d be surprised how easy it is to mess this detail up.

On the day of the show, I’ll tie the two wheel ignition points into one leader so that both wheels will light at the same time.

I always test at least one of the wheels with the cones you want to use to make sure that they are powerful enough to get the wheels spinning once they are lit.

Stay Green,

Ned

Planning a Consumer Fireworks Display

Many of us really enjoy producing a nice fireworks display to entertain our family and friends, and to show off our pyro talents.

Over the past few weeks we’ve discussed making small Cremora fireball pots for such a show, and electric matches to use when firing them.

For many years a buddy of mine has hosted a large party, with a hog-roast and a bonfire, which has brought in hundreds of folks. I’ve presented a fireworks show annually at this event to cap off the festivities.

There’s nothing quite like putting in many hours of work and to have it result in that many people-adults and children-sitting in rapt awe as the show goes on, and erupting in joyful cheering at its completion.

I’ve had many folks compliment these small shows, comparing them favorably with the huge, commercial, downtown displays on the river. There’s just something about a small, intimate, family-and-friends setting, ending up with a nicely planned pyro display, all resulting in a really memorable event.

In the end, this demonstration of our pyrotechnic creativity, talent, hard work, and experience, and the entertaining of others with all of it, is really what this art form is all about.

To insure a safe and successful consumer fireworks display, there are some topics which merit consideration in the planning process:

• What are the laws governing such fireworks displays in my particular state, county, or city? Is there a requirement to have insurance for such a show?
• What is the site like where the display is to be presented? What sorts of fireworks devices will be appropriate and safe at that site?
• What is the budget for the show? Who will be paying for the fireworks, and when?
• Will the display be shot with accompanying music or not?
• Will the display be fired by hand, electrically, or with a combination of the two?
• Who will be helping with the display?
• What will be the length of the show?
• What devices will be employed in the show, and how will they be laid out at the site?
• What safety precautions are necessary?
• Will there be any reloading of fireworks during the show?
• How can we prepare for inclement weather?

All of this might sound like a bit of “overkill” to some of you. Having been involved in the planning and production of many small “backyard” displays and large commercial ones, I have learned the value of planning and getting as much of the work done prior to the day of the show as possible.

It’s quite amazing how much work there is to be done on the day of the show. If the above topics are addressed beforehand, and if enough work is done before the day of the show, then the chances of a safe, successful and enjoyable show are greatly improved.

This ain’t a fun subject, but it might be the one which can save you a lot of heartbreak and wasted money.

In the USA, there is no federal law regulating the use of consumer fireworks, only their production and sale.

But laws vary widely from state to state, and from locality to locality. In my state of Ohio, the display of all but “safe and sane” consumer fireworks is illegal. But around the Fourth of July many local law enforcement agencies look the other way unless they get a lot of complaints from neighbors.

In some other states anything goes. In others if you fire off a bottle rocket you’ll end up in the slammer pretty quickly, have all your fireworks confiscated and perhaps your car and home as well.

Only you can research your state and local laws, and determine for yourself what you can and cannot do.

Here in Ohio, I’ve chosen to get my state fireworks display operator’s license, to procure the necessary fireworks display permits, and to have a certificate of insurance for any display I produce. This gets the authorities-having-jurisdiction (AHJ’s) on my side, and I avoid having to be looking over my shoulder and waiting for the cop cars to pull up during the show.

And, if God forbid, there’s any property damage or injury, my permit and insurance are there to back me up.

Where will I be shooting the display? How big is the area; where will the spectators be; how close are the nearest structures and trees; how dry is the surrounding vegetation; and what sorts of fireworks will be safe to display there?

Some measurements with a measuring-wheel, and a simple sketch of the site can help a lot with the planning of the show.

On the sketch, I define the areas where the crowd will be. I show where I’m going to erect a barrier of stakes and caution tape, beyond which the spectators will not be allowed.

I also measure off the minimum distances needed to maintain safe separation between the crowd and the various fireworks devices. NFPA 1123 is the code which establishes these distances. These measurements not only insure compliance with the law, they also help insure the safety of the crowd during the display. These distances are as follows:

75 feet for ground display fireworks like fountains, strobes, small wheels, etc.

125 feet for large wheels with powerful drivers, and other powerful ground fireworks.

125 feet for smaller multi-shot cakes, etc.

70 feet per inch of tube ID for Roman candles, aerial shell mortars, larger multi-shot cakes, etc. (i.e., 125 feet for 1.75″ artillery shells, 210 feet for 3″ shell mortars, etc.)

I then determine the maximum size of the fireworks that I can use in a display fired at this site. I keep these limits in mind as I select the product for my show.

These separation distances assume that mortars, cakes, etc., are securely supported and/or barricaded. This protects the crowd from debris fallout and from a falling “dud” shell or device. If a mortar is not securely supported, falls over, and fires directly at the spectators, these distances will not insure their safety. Therefore, care must be taken to securely place and support mortars and cakes in the field prior to firing.

You’ll notice that rockets are not mentioned in the above safe-distance specifications. Rockets are not typically used in professional displays any longer due to safety issues regarding the fallout of sticks and spent-motors. Rockets are used often in consumer fireworks displays, though.

Often the flight of a rocket is unpredictable even if it is fired from a secure, stable, and vertical launch support. I personally would not fire rockets in a show unless I could insure that the spent rockets absolutely would not be coming down on the upturned faces of spectators as they watch the show, or on parked vehicles. Injury and insurance claims are not on my list of “fun things” at a fireworks show.

You can see from all of the above that I take all of this seriously. Many of us see multiple examples every year of folks who have had a bit too much to drink, take some cakes and mortar tubes out to the back yard or into the cul-de-sac, have adults with kids standing in front of them about 30 feet away, and start firing away, whooping and hollering.

Most folks get away with this. Some do not. They either hurt themselves, or worse, some innocent bystander. And, as a result, fireworks get more of a bad reputation. Nothing would take the fun out of all of this more quickly for me than hurting some kid with my “hobby.” I suppose I can’t emphasize the safety aspects of this enough.

How much can I spend on fireworks for my planned display?

Really! We’ve all gone into a fireworks shop, planning on picking up a couple of bags of fireworks for 50 bucks, and have walked out pushing two shopping carts full of brightly colored boxes after writing a check for $250.

Do you want your wife to be talking to you on the day of the show, and sitting there enjoying your artistry, with the house payment paid in full? Yeah, sometimes all of this feels a bit like an addiction, but I have to balance it in with all the other responsibilities in my life, and I hate fighting with my wife.

It might be $200 or $2000, but the budget helps a lot when it comes to actually picking out the fireworks to be shot the night of the display.

Will I be paying for the fireworks all by myself, or will some friends be pitching in? It is probably a good idea to get a commitment, and even the cash up front before the shopping trip.

Just a few things to think about.

It can be a lot of fun to record a soundtrack to be played during the fireworks show. On the other hand, sometimes it’s nice to just shoot the fireworks all by themselves, enjoying their rhythm and beat, and playing the whistles, reports, soft fountain hissing, color breaks, and rocket whooshes one after another.

I like to shoot a show to music if possible. In the kind of show we are discussing, I’ll simply choose some music based on the following criteria, and pick product that goes along with it. I don’t try to get pin-point precision choreography. I’ll save that for large, computer-fired shows.

Individual song download services like Napster and ITunes can be invaluable for finding and procuring great soundtrack songs.

One thing that I really think keeps an audience interested and entertained is variety. Folks are used to watching movies and television where there are ups and downs of emotion and action. Drama involves tension and relaxation, hard and soft, loud and quiet, slow build-up and climax. A good fireworks display will include the same.

We have found that, in general, 1-2 minutes of a particular song will keep an audience’s attention. After that length of time, their minds will start to wander.

I think it’s also important to keep the music recognizable. There are going to be loud fireworks going off which will obscure any music playing. I like to use a lot of hard-beats so folks can at least hear the beat of the song, and I also like to incorporate music in the soundtrack that folks will easily recognize and be able to follow along with.

Here are some possible musical themes to which appropriate fireworks can be choreographed:

• Patriotic songs: National Anthem, Taps, America the Beautiful, I’m Proud to be an American, etc. (Red/White/Blue fireworks, fountains, waterfalls, etc.)
• Kids’ songs: Lion King’s “Circle of Life,” “Ghostbusters,” “Linus and Lucy,” theme from Charlie Brown, etc.
• Slow beginning beat: The beginning of The Who’s “Won’t Get Fooled Again” (strobes)
• Light, humorous songs: YMCA, disco songs, etc. (aerial shells, cakes)
• Soft operatic songs: “O Mio Babbino Caro,” Andrea Bocelli’s “Por Ti Volare,” Israel Kamakawiwo’ole’s “Over the Rainbow” (falling leaves cakes/shells, soft shells one at a time)
• Dramatic songs: “Theme from the Last of the Mohicans,” Pirates of the Caribbean music, etc. (cakes and shells)
• Hard-beat finale songs: Hard Rock, Led Zepplin, Iron Butterfly, Queen, Black Sabbath’s “Iron Man,” etc. (hard-break and report finale cakes and shells,firecracker wall/tree)

There are, of course, too many songs and types of music to even begin mentioning them all, but the list above might suggest a place to start. One facet of a fireworks display which I really enjoy is the editing of a soundtrack which includes parts of 10-20 songs which I hope will entertain the crowd as fireworks go off to them.

I use Sound Forge
audio editing software to cut, splice, and edit my soundtracks. I’m sure there are other programs out there, many of which can be obtained for free, with which we can assemble a fun soundtrack for our show. A final firing-script with firing times is used to fire the show.

Large, precisely-timed displays are typically fired electrically, and often the firing is controlled by a computer program. This is a bit out of the range of most small display operators. But manual electrical firing can easily be incorporated into some or all of the show to improve the pace and the timing of the show, and to insure that particular fireworks are fired at exactly the desired moment.

The size of the firing system(s) will determine the number of cues (individual ignitions) you can incorporate into the display. If you only have a 12-cue system, there will be a maximum of 12 individual firings that you can have in the show, and the same goes for a 144-cue system.

But with creative fusing techniques it is possible, to greatly expand the number of fireworks and the duration of the display segment that is fired with each cue, though. We will be expanding on that idea in a soon-to-come Fireworks Tips article.

Some local fireworks clubs have yearly competitions in which a whole show is laid out on a sheet of plywood and the fireworks are fused together using various techniques for timing of the effects. The whole shebang is ignited using one firework fuse or firing cue.

Next week’s article will focus on tips for wiring a display with various firing systems and include some tips for fusing fireworks together to expand the versatility of the electric firing cues.

If some or all of the display will be fired by hand, it’s a good idea to have a scripted firing order and to have a firm idea of who will be helping to fire it. Rehearsing the firing of the display with all of the shooters will insure a smooth display after dark.

Hand firing safety is greatly enhanced by the use of a flashlight and propane torch, or a road flare taped to a stick. Head or helmet mounted flashlights are great during firing and post-display cleanup.

If there is to be any reloading of artillery (festival ball, reloadable) shell mortars during the show, this needs to be thoroughly planned. Safe ready-boxes, which will contain the product to be loaded during the show, and their locations need to be planned. Segments during the show, when product is being fired in areas other than the area where the reloading is going on, are the only safe way to perform this operation.

How long do we plan on having the fireworks show last? While it may be fun for us to take fireworks one at a time out to the shooting area and light them for hours on end, this may not be as entertaining for the crowd as it is for us.

Folks are used to being entertained for a half hour at a time with well scripted TV shows. A fireworks show that lasts 15, 20, or 30 minutes and has a lot of variety in it can easily keep folks entertained. Beyond that amount of time, you will probably start to lose folks’ attention.

Of course, the length of the show will depend on your budget. It’s a good idea to keep at least 25% of the product for the show’s finale, which might last a minute or two. So scripting the rest of the affordable fireworks in an entertaining way, overlapping their durations just a bit to avoid unplanned “dark sky,” will determine the show’s duration.

One way to increase the duration of the show, yet not put much of a dent in the budget, is to choose long-duration fireworks like fountains, strobes, wheels, and waterfalls, which can fill minutes of the display for a minimal expense.

This all leads us to a discussion of the actual product we will be firing during the display. All of this will be determined by the show’s budget, site constraints, choreography, and personal tastes.

One fun addition to a show can be some pre-dusk firing of daytime effects. There is an increasing variety of daylight devices: smoke, Sky Lanterns, and streamer and parachute cakes. Kids love to run, chase, and try to catch the parachutes and streamers. Just make sure that the cakes produce fallout which is not still hot or otherwise dangerous for this kind of activity.

One really great way to pick out the product for a show is to attend the product demo at your local fireworks store. My friend Brian Lynch owns a store nearby in West Harrison, Indiana, Half Price Fireworks. Brian actually goes to China and hand-picks his favorite new devices for his shop. Often, these local, independent shops can give you the most bang for your bucks.

I attended one of Brian’s product demos recently, and was handed a checklist/note-taking-sheet to use during the demonstration. Before the devices started to be fired, I organized my note-taking to include notes about these various aspects of the product:

• Height of fireworks display–low-medium-high (one way to increase the variety in a show is to use various parts of the background (the sky): ground level, low sky, and high sky
• Loudness of the firework (more variety can be planned if soft-medium-loud sections of the show are scheduled)
• Quality of the firework, rated on a scale of 1-5
• Duration of the display of a firework device (I brought a stopwatch to use to record this time)
• Notes of the crowd’s reaction to a firework (laughter, WOW applause, quiet awe)
• Cost of the firework, and its value for the money, (i.e. 12 seconds of a nice cake for $16, a line of soft-strobing fountains which last over a minute for $4)

Based on all of the above information from the demo combined with the show budget, site limitations, and choreography, I now select my product for the show, getting the plan down on paper before strolling down the aisles of the shop.

One additional nice feature that many shops provide, including Brian’s, is a label near each item which indicates the product’s duration, effect, and often an actual photo of the firework in action. This info can add to that which was gained at the product demonstration.

The layout of the planned devices can then be added to the sketch of the display site. Device variety, loudness variety, display height variety, and changes in durations and pace, all serve to keep the crowd interested in the show.

The safe use of some homemade firework devices, such as the Cremoras detailed in Cremora Fireballs, can really enhance a display while only lightly impacting the budget.

If there is to be hand-firing during the show, safety gear such as safety-glasses, hardhats, gloves, long-sleeved cotton shirts/jackets, and hearing protection will be in order.

A five-gallon bucket of water for cooling off any possible burned hands, etc, is a good idea. Pump-up garden sprayers or a pressurized garden-hose/nozzle serve as fire extinguishers.

Have a first-aid kit on site.

Small radios or walkie-talkies can enhance communications between shooters during the show.

A barrier of caution-tape, stretched between fence posts, serves to keep the spectators in their designated areas before, during and after the display.

Thorough cleanup after the show, and a careful inspection of the site at daybreak following the display, serve to keep unfired fireworks out of the hands of children, who love to find and light or disassemble such items, often with disastrous consequences.

What are we going to do if it rains? A few years back I helped on a show worth tens-of-thousands of dollars. It was a hot, sunny July day, and the weather forecast predicted the same weather right through the evening. A half-hour before show time, a black, rolling wall of clouds formed on the northern horizon, and within 15 minutes the wind was howling and a hellacious thunderstorm rolled in.

In the wind, there was no way to use tarps or plastic to cover our mortars and cakes, and the long waterfall and the set pieces were completely vulnerable. We lost the whole show, and had stacks of wet aerial shells and box-cakes that had to be somehow salvaged or disposed of safely. A real mess!

These types of experiences motivate most of us experienced display producers to take precautions against the ravages of inclement weather, no matter what the forecast is. I like to say, “If you don’t want it to rain, cover everything up. If you want it to rain, act as if it’s not going to.”

Rolls of plastic or aluminum foil, and plastic tarps, work well to cover racks of mortars. Large plastic bags cover up individual cakes, and rolls of plastic stretch-wrap can be used for mortar racks, lines of fountains, etc. It can be hard to cover and protect a firecracker wall or a waterfall or set piece, so sometimes it’s best to leave them lying on the ground and covered with plastic until the last minute if there is a questionable forecast.

With planning centered around all of these subjects, a successful, relatively stress-free, safe, and fun fireworks display can be produced. Most folks will never know the amount of work that goes into a good show, but they also will never get to experience the satisfaction that comes from creating such a work of art and hearing the audience’s cheers during and after it.

In the next few weeks, we’ll be focusing more on the electric wiring and fusing of a display, the assembly of mortar racks and supports for wheels, firecracker walls/trees and waterfalls, and the actual layout/placement/assembly/support of a consumer fireworks show.

Stay tuned and stay green,

Ned