<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Fireworks Chemical Milling &#8211; Fast</title>
	<atom:link href="http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html</link>
	<description>Blog featuring Harry Gilliam of Skylighter, Inc.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 15 Mar 2010 02:17:14 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=abc</generator>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
		<item>
		<title>By: Kenkzak</title>
		<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/comment-page-1#comment-4426</link>
		<dc:creator>Kenkzak</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Oct 2009 19:49:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.skylighter.com/?p=196#comment-4426</guid>
		<description>Last year I received a 5lb brick of KNO3. Never had this problem before and my screens and mortar &amp; pestle quickly proved unequal to the task, so I went shopping.
I found a relatively tiny food proccessor [yet bigger than a coffee mill] on closeout sale for $6.  It got me through the job at hand but I rank it as a poor performer. It would reduce the load to about 1/3 powder, and 1/3 screenable with some effort.  The remaining 1/3 went back in with the next load.  
I have a Black &amp; Decker  coffee mill, but my coffee is more important than my Salt Peter..     After reading this blogpost, another coffee mill is now on the horizon.

Some folks I know use lead balls in thier tumblers and they mention that the oxidizers comes out looking a bit grey.  I worry about the lead contamination in the smoke being breathed in????</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Last year I received a 5lb brick of KNO3. Never had this problem before and my screens and mortar &amp; pestle quickly proved unequal to the task, so I went shopping.<br />
I found a relatively tiny food proccessor [yet bigger than a coffee mill] on closeout sale for $6.  It got me through the job at hand but I rank it as a poor performer. It would reduce the load to about 1/3 powder, and 1/3 screenable with some effort.  The remaining 1/3 went back in with the next load.<br />
I have a Black &amp; Decker  coffee mill, but my coffee is more important than my Salt Peter..     After reading this blogpost, another coffee mill is now on the horizon.</p>
<p>Some folks I know use lead balls in thier tumblers and they mention that the oxidizers comes out looking a bit grey.  I worry about the lead contamination in the smoke being breathed in????</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: HEGilliam</title>
		<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/comment-page-1#comment-4411</link>
		<dc:creator>HEGilliam</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Oct 2009 02:03:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.skylighter.com/?p=196#comment-4411</guid>
		<description>Tom,

First, for you and for everyone else reading your post... I have a very strong bias against ceramics for *mixed* pyro compositions.

I am aware that there are probably &quot;safe&quot; ceramics and unsafe ones.  I have alumina media from Coors, and their piezo electric activity in the 5 gallon mill bucket in my cement mixer looked like a blue firestorm!  I have absolutely no doubt that those media would cause a batch of black powder to explode so fast it would make your head spin.

I am aware that some ceramics do not produce piezo-electric sparks.  But how do one really know, until one uses them?  &quot;They all LOOK the same--white, heavy things...hmmm, did they send me right ones?&quot; I personally ain&#039;t willing to be the guinea pig.

Ceramics are fantastic for any *individual* chemical I have ever milled, from caked oxidizers to even titanium turnings. Great results.

But if you are milling black powder or any other mixed comp, I would only recommend non-sparking lead or brass (there are other alternatives, but these are the easiest to get hold of). 

(I am sure this will provoke naysayers -- I&#039;ve been in this argument before. The argument goes like this: &quot;well I have been using ceramics for 5 years and never had an explosion.&quot;

Which is kinda like &quot;I have been driving for five years without wearing a seatbelt, and haven&#039;t been killed, yet.&quot; ) 

All of these milling media are heavy. Their weight will make quick work of most rock tumbler motors (the cost of ball mills appears to be proportionate to their size and horsepowder--duh!)

I dunno about them triangles.  I am a simple country boy.  We only had round balls when I was a pup.  And bothering to mix media begins to sound complicated to my lazy, simple nature.  I am lazy, and I am impatient.  I just wanna do the least work to get the job done right.

Here&#039;s my formula for successful ball milling of excellent black powder.
- Open ye mill jarre
- Fill half of the jar with lead balls (.50 caliber are nice)
- Fill 1/4 with rough mixed BP chemicals--leave 1/4 empty
- Cap it, and turn the mill on.
- Go do whatever I damn well please for 2-4 hours, or 8 or 10 (but 2-4 will do it).
- Come back and retrieve finished black powder

Works perfectly every time.  I dunno about them triangle thingys--I might worry about them starting to lose their shape or something.  I got enough worries.  Hell, it took me 5 years to get over my phobias of the millenium bug!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tom,</p>
<p>First, for you and for everyone else reading your post&#8230; I have a very strong bias against ceramics for *mixed* pyro compositions.</p>
<p>I am aware that there are probably &#8220;safe&#8221; ceramics and unsafe ones.  I have alumina media from Coors, and their piezo electric activity in the 5 gallon mill bucket in my cement mixer looked like a blue firestorm!  I have absolutely no doubt that those media would cause a batch of black powder to explode so fast it would make your head spin.</p>
<p>I am aware that some ceramics do not produce piezo-electric sparks.  But how do one really know, until one uses them?  &#8220;They all LOOK the same&#8211;white, heavy things&#8230;hmmm, did they send me right ones?&#8221; I personally ain&#8217;t willing to be the guinea pig.</p>
<p>Ceramics are fantastic for any *individual* chemical I have ever milled, from caked oxidizers to even titanium turnings. Great results.</p>
<p>But if you are milling black powder or any other mixed comp, I would only recommend non-sparking lead or brass (there are other alternatives, but these are the easiest to get hold of). </p>
<p>(I am sure this will provoke naysayers &#8212; I&#8217;ve been in this argument before. The argument goes like this: &#8220;well I have been using ceramics for 5 years and never had an explosion.&#8221;</p>
<p>Which is kinda like &#8220;I have been driving for five years without wearing a seatbelt, and haven&#8217;t been killed, yet.&#8221; ) </p>
<p>All of these milling media are heavy. Their weight will make quick work of most rock tumbler motors (the cost of ball mills appears to be proportionate to their size and horsepowder&#8211;duh!)</p>
<p>I dunno about them triangles.  I am a simple country boy.  We only had round balls when I was a pup.  And bothering to mix media begins to sound complicated to my lazy, simple nature.  I am lazy, and I am impatient.  I just wanna do the least work to get the job done right.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s my formula for successful ball milling of excellent black powder.<br />
- Open ye mill jarre<br />
- Fill half of the jar with lead balls (.50 caliber are nice)<br />
- Fill 1/4 with rough mixed BP chemicals&#8211;leave 1/4 empty<br />
- Cap it, and turn the mill on.<br />
- Go do whatever I damn well please for 2-4 hours, or 8 or 10 (but 2-4 will do it).<br />
- Come back and retrieve finished black powder</p>
<p>Works perfectly every time.  I dunno about them triangle thingys&#8211;I might worry about them starting to lose their shape or something.  I got enough worries.  Hell, it took me 5 years to get over my phobias of the millenium bug!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: HEGilliam</title>
		<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/comment-page-1#comment-4410</link>
		<dc:creator>HEGilliam</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Oct 2009 01:42:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.skylighter.com/?p=196#comment-4410</guid>
		<description>Ron,

The kindness of your words is exceeded only by your taste in writing!  Thanks.
Go outside and LIGHT something!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ron,</p>
<p>The kindness of your words is exceeded only by your taste in writing!  Thanks.<br />
Go outside and LIGHT something!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Tom Fay</title>
		<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/comment-page-1#comment-4364</link>
		<dc:creator>Tom Fay</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2009 03:41:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.skylighter.com/?p=196#comment-4364</guid>
		<description>Most of the tips on blade milling reaffirmed my own experience and observations. My own particular mill is a bottom-of-the-line, Mr Cofee item. I don&#039;t fill it beyond about 1/4&quot; from the rim, and I&#039;ve found I do as well by sort of rolling it around when I run it as I would by shaking it. I&#039;ll also give ie an occasional tap or two on the edge of the bench between depressions of the button. These techniques keep the load on the bearings from spiking, increasing the life of the unit. 

    What I eventually want to do is not just get one for fuels &amp; one for oxidizers, but one for Chlorates, one for Perchlorates, one for Nitrates, one for metallic fuels, and one for organics. The chances for cross contamination are just too great. All it takes is a few stray molecules getting with some other substance they don&#039;t get along with, and you could at least burn the place down (perhaps spectacularly), or maybe wind up eating with your feet... by Braille.

    On to ball milling, I have a couple of questions about that. Right now, all I&#039;ve got is one of those little Chinese rock tumblers with the rubber drums. Ceramic media seemed to rough up the interior of the jars a bit, but I was making a small batch of meal and didn&#039;t have a good way at hand to see what kind of contamination I was incurring. This was 1/2&quot;, spherical, porcelain stuff from CoorsTek mixed 50/50 by count with 5/8&quot; round brass, the idea being that the heavier brass stuff would exert more force on the working sufaces of the ceramic media. It worked according to theory, the unintended consequence being the above-mentioned erosion of the drum, plus the fact that the much harder ceramic permanently scarred the Hell out of the brass; no more nice &amp; shiny. So are there any sources on mixed grinding media for ball mills, such as compatibility, contamination or simple size charts? Something like that would be mighty handy.

    My other question has to do with the use of vibratory media in ball mills. I was at Harbor Freight &amp; saw some triangular, ceramic media about 3/4&quot; corner to corner, about 1/4&quot; thick. There were smaller and larger sizes, but all had the same basic proportions. Would using these buy me any particular advantage in performance or economy? (Not in this little machine, of course.)

    Thanks, TF.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Most of the tips on blade milling reaffirmed my own experience and observations. My own particular mill is a bottom-of-the-line, Mr Cofee item. I don&#8217;t fill it beyond about 1/4&#8243; from the rim, and I&#8217;ve found I do as well by sort of rolling it around when I run it as I would by shaking it. I&#8217;ll also give ie an occasional tap or two on the edge of the bench between depressions of the button. These techniques keep the load on the bearings from spiking, increasing the life of the unit. </p>
<p>    What I eventually want to do is not just get one for fuels &amp; one for oxidizers, but one for Chlorates, one for Perchlorates, one for Nitrates, one for metallic fuels, and one for organics. The chances for cross contamination are just too great. All it takes is a few stray molecules getting with some other substance they don&#8217;t get along with, and you could at least burn the place down (perhaps spectacularly), or maybe wind up eating with your feet&#8230; by Braille.</p>
<p>    On to ball milling, I have a couple of questions about that. Right now, all I&#8217;ve got is one of those little Chinese rock tumblers with the rubber drums. Ceramic media seemed to rough up the interior of the jars a bit, but I was making a small batch of meal and didn&#8217;t have a good way at hand to see what kind of contamination I was incurring. This was 1/2&#8243;, spherical, porcelain stuff from CoorsTek mixed 50/50 by count with 5/8&#8243; round brass, the idea being that the heavier brass stuff would exert more force on the working sufaces of the ceramic media. It worked according to theory, the unintended consequence being the above-mentioned erosion of the drum, plus the fact that the much harder ceramic permanently scarred the Hell out of the brass; no more nice &amp; shiny. So are there any sources on mixed grinding media for ball mills, such as compatibility, contamination or simple size charts? Something like that would be mighty handy.</p>
<p>    My other question has to do with the use of vibratory media in ball mills. I was at Harbor Freight &amp; saw some triangular, ceramic media about 3/4&#8243; corner to corner, about 1/4&#8243; thick. There were smaller and larger sizes, but all had the same basic proportions. Would using these buy me any particular advantage in performance or economy? (Not in this little machine, of course.)</p>
<p>    Thanks, TF.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Joey Novak</title>
		<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/comment-page-1#comment-4351</link>
		<dc:creator>Joey Novak</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2009 00:27:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.skylighter.com/?p=196#comment-4351</guid>
		<description>Awesome!  Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Awesome!  Thanks!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Left's Mixing Shed</title>
		<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/comment-page-1#comment-4345</link>
		<dc:creator>Left's Mixing Shed</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Oct 2009 23:02:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.skylighter.com/?p=196#comment-4345</guid>
		<description>I have used coffee mills and agree that they work well, especially for small quantities.  For larger quantities, a kitchen blender works equally well and you can allow it to run for a much longer time.  The key is not to overfill.  About 1/3 full works well.  If you are really patient, you can find inexpensive blenders on sale at discount stores for surprisingly low prices.  I bought two on two separate occasions for $17-$20 about four years.  When using a blender, it often helps to guide the powder into the vortex using a wooden or plastic spatula.  Avoid touching the spinning blades.  Shaking the blender while it is working is another good trick.   The different speed settings on a blender are very helpful, and it&#039;s very easy to clean a blender.  You also can buy spare parts.  If you want to experiment a little, buy a cheap blender and experiment by milling some KNO3 or KClO4 at different speeds with different levels of filling.  Heck - you probably can experiment using NaCl and your wife&#039;s kitchen blender!  It won&#039;t take long for you to figure out how to do it.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have used coffee mills and agree that they work well, especially for small quantities.  For larger quantities, a kitchen blender works equally well and you can allow it to run for a much longer time.  The key is not to overfill.  About 1/3 full works well.  If you are really patient, you can find inexpensive blenders on sale at discount stores for surprisingly low prices.  I bought two on two separate occasions for $17-$20 about four years.  When using a blender, it often helps to guide the powder into the vortex using a wooden or plastic spatula.  Avoid touching the spinning blades.  Shaking the blender while it is working is another good trick.   The different speed settings on a blender are very helpful, and it&#8217;s very easy to clean a blender.  You also can buy spare parts.  If you want to experiment a little, buy a cheap blender and experiment by milling some KNO3 or KClO4 at different speeds with different levels of filling.  Heck &#8211; you probably can experiment using NaCl and your wife&#8217;s kitchen blender!  It won&#8217;t take long for you to figure out how to do it.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: ron roessel</title>
		<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/comment-page-1#comment-4342</link>
		<dc:creator>ron roessel</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Oct 2009 22:44:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.skylighter.com/?p=196#comment-4342</guid>
		<description>Harry- I absolutely love your writing style and your articles. VERY informative and enjoyable to read. Please don&#039;t change that style. I wait for them almost as bad as a junkie waiting for his next fix. Kinda like a pyro in mid-March...too much snow to get to the launch site and too many goodies to light. Hoping to be able to make it to the next pyro convention. Play safe. Ron.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Harry- I absolutely love your writing style and your articles. VERY informative and enjoyable to read. Please don&#8217;t change that style. I wait for them almost as bad as a junkie waiting for his next fix. Kinda like a pyro in mid-March&#8230;too much snow to get to the launch site and too many goodies to light. Hoping to be able to make it to the next pyro convention. Play safe. Ron.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Don</title>
		<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/comment-page-1#comment-4337</link>
		<dc:creator>Don</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Oct 2009 22:04:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.skylighter.com/?p=196#comment-4337</guid>
		<description>This was needed information. I had the identical problem but thought it was my digital scale and the proportions of oxidizer and smoke powder. The cheap coffee mill is a new idea to me so off we go to get two of them. Thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This was needed information. I had the identical problem but thought it was my digital scale and the proportions of oxidizer and smoke powder. The cheap coffee mill is a new idea to me so off we go to get two of them. Thanks.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: How to Make a Smoke Bomb – Or Not! &#124; Confessions of a Fireworks Man</title>
		<link>http://blog.skylighter.com/fireworks/2009/10/fireworks-chemical-milling.html/comment-page-1#comment-4325</link>
		<dc:creator>How to Make a Smoke Bomb – Or Not! &#124; Confessions of a Fireworks Man</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Oct 2009 20:18:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.skylighter.com/?p=196#comment-4325</guid>
		<description>[...] More on cheap chemical milling using a coffee (blade) mill. [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] More on cheap chemical milling using a coffee (blade) mill. [...]</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
